Writer: Yavuz İşçen
October 2007

Mustafapaşa is located 6 km from Ürgüp, in the middle of Cappadocia. Greek and Turkish people have lived here together since Ottoman Empire period. At those times Greek population was denser. As in all other Anatolian villages where Greek population was dense, serious richness was standing out in Sinassos. However, Sinassos was richer because most of Greeks from Sinassos were important businessmen who worked in Istanbul. First of all richness, well built houses which developed together vision and perception of life, magnificent public buildings, a more organized social life… All of these are characteristics make Sinassos distinct from others.

Richness comes with caviar and salted tunny
In İstanbul, all the people in caviar business were from Sinassos. Sinassos Guild, one of the guilds among 40 Greek guilds in İstanbul, became monopoly in salted fish and caviar. People from Sinassos who also worked in dye and seamanship sector, didn’t hesitate to spend their money for development of their homeland. Therefore, it can be said that Sinassos was the most developed trade and culture center of Cappadocia, in 1800s. According to the census in 1890, 4500 Greek people and 600 Turkish-Muslim people were living in Sinassos. Sinassos was among important education and religious centers of Greeks. Among rich Greeks, especially after 1860s, new and magnificent house trend spread rapidly. I think, in fact, it was a way to show how good they earn in İstanbul or perhaps the bail of life that passed far from wives and children. Although many of them were collapsed, surviving houses give us opinion about gorgeousness of Sinassos.

A typical Sinassos Greek house
All of the Greek Houses in Sinassos have courtyards. Mostly there is a barn in the courtyard. Under the courtyard there is ‘şırahane’ carved into rock. Şırahane is the place where wine and other alcoholic beverages are produced. Houses are usually two storeyed. Important rooms of the house are on the second floor, kitchen and larder are on the ground floor. In most of the houses, there are a fireplace, wooden closets, and niches carved into rocks. Inside these niches were ornamented by skilful artists of the period. Ceiling is usually wooden covered and ornamented with woodworking. There is an icon in almost each house. Icon rooms were built mostly on the ground or underground floor. This used to be worship room of family. We see vaults as support system in Sinassos Houses. Roofs of the houses are plain patios. In most of the mansions, small balconies beautify exterior face of the houses. 

Mustafapaşa houses guide
Mustafapaşa has three main districts. Yeni Mahalle, Davutlu Mahallesi and Yukarı Mahalle. I think exploring Mustafapaşa in this frame is better. We’ve visited 54 old houses during our tour. Although some of them are abandoned to their fates, most of them are still used today. Also, some of them were transformed into business firms. There were wall paintings in 13 of these houses we visited. I chose 21 of these houses and cited them here. If you are ready, let’s walk.

Yeni Mahalle
We are beginning our tour from Sinassos Square. After visiting Old Sinassos Hotel, we are following Sümer Street, and walking upwards in front of Gül Konakları. We are seeing Bingo’s house and watching Mustafapaşa on view patio and complete our tour near Cami Kebir. The houses in Yeni Mahalle are, Old Sinassos Hotel, Canseverler Mansion, Hotel Natura, Ali Sümer House, Mustafa Savaş House, Bingo’s House, İbrahim Boz’s House, respectively.

Davutlu Mahallesi
We’re starting our tour from Cumhuriyet Square. By following Zafer Street, we are walking under Maraşoğlu Bridge and reaching a square. We are entering Hamam Street and reaching Asmalı Mansion at the end of our tour in alleys of the district. From here again we are bending to Cumhuriyet Square. The houses we will visit in Davutlu Mahallesi are, Zeki Yaman House, Yaşar Esen House, Galip Özdemir House, Murat Tüzen House, Cemal Ömer Gökalp House, Old Greek House, Fahri Erbil House, Berke Halıcılık, Topakoğlu Mansion, respectively.

Yukarı Mahalle
We’re starting our tour from Cumhuriyet Square and enter Beyazıt Street. Don’t worry about stone floored acclivity. There is a children’s playground at the end of the acclivity. The first house to see is here. We will use the natural bridge to pass Gibos Valley and enter Gazi Street. Afterwards we will walk through Manastırlar Street. Our tour will come to an end at Cumhuriyet Square where we will reach via old stone stairs near Sipahi Mosque. The houses we will see in Yukarı Mahalle are, Mehmet İnce House, Yılmaz Selçuk House, Süleyman Arı House, Mehmet Ali Orhan House, Galip Özer House, respectively.